Key Takeaways
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Symptoms: mower veers, hesitates, or won’t turn.
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Common causes: worn linkage, loose belts, low tire pressure, hydraulic faults.
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Safety: shut off engine, remove spark‑plug wire, park on level ground.
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DIY checks: inspect linkages, lubricate pivots, test belt tension, measure tire pressure.
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When to call: hydraulic leaks, pump failures, major part replacements.
Understanding Zero‑Turn Steering Problems
A zero‑turn mower steers by changing wheel speed. Each wheel has its own hydro drive. When one slows, the mower turns. Faults can appear as:
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Pulling hard right or left
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Delayed response when you move the lever
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Jerky motion or sudden stops
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Sticky lever that won’t return
Three main causes span most steering issues:
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Linkage wear
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Worn or bent tie rods let one wheel lock.
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Loose bushings make the lever feel sloppy.
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Belt or pulley problems
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A glazed drive belt slips under load.
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A seized pulley stops belt drive to one wheel.
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Hydraulic faults
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Low fluid or air in lines cuts power.
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A bad pump or motor leaks internal pressure.
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Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Check |
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Mower drifts right or left | Uneven tire pressure or bent linkage | Measure PSI and inspect rods |
Slow or no turn response | Worn linkage or belt slipping | Move lever; watch belt spin |
Jerky or rough turns | Damaged pulley or low hydraulic fluid | Spin pulleys; check fluid |
Lever sticks or binds | Dry pivot points or seized bushings | Lubricate fittings; test play |
Expert tip: I once fixed a client’s mower that would not turn right. The outer tie rod end had worn through its bushing. A quick parts swap from our parts & components page restored smooth steering.
For a deeper look at zero‑turn models and features, visit our zero‑turn mower guide.
Safety Steps Before You Start Repairs
Working on any mower poses risk. Follow these steps to stay safe and avoid damage:
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Park on level ground
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Engage the parking brake.
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Use wheel chocks if available.
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Shut off engine fully
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Move the throttle to “Off.”
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Remove the spark‑plug wire and tuck it away.
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Cool down
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Let the engine and deck cool for at least 15 minutes.
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Hot metal and blades can burn you.
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Gather tools
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Metric wrenches or sockets.
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Grease gun with light grease.
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Tire pressure gauge.
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Belt‑tension tool or a straightedge.
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Clear workspace
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Lay down cardboard or mats for oil drips.
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Keep the area well lit and free of trip hazards.
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Why these steps matter
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A secured mower won’t roll away.
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Removing the spark‑plug wire stops accidental starts.
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Cool parts let you work without burns.
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Proper tools cut repair time and prevent damage.
We cover full safety checks in our services & safety checks page. You can follow that checklist even if you plan to call us later.
Inspecting Steering Linkages and Controls
Linkage parts wear first. They carry all steering forces. A close inspection finds most faults:
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Tie rods and drag links
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Look for bends, cracks, or rust.
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Grip each rod end and wiggle. More than 1–2 mm of play means wear.
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Control levers and pivots
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Spray a small amount of penetrating oil at each joint.
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Move levers fully right and left. They should move smoothly.
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If a lever sticks, note the exact position. That points to the bad pivot.
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Bushings and bearings
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Remove covers if needed to access lower bushings.
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Press on each bushing by hand. A worn bushing lets the shaft rock.
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Mounting points and welds
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Check welds on the frame and linkage brackets.
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Look for hairline cracks. Even small cracks can spread under load.
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Maintenance steps
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Clean: Remove dirt and old grease from all joints.
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Grease: Fill each fitting until old grease pushes out.
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Tighten: Torque nuts to factory specs. Loose hardware lets parts move incorrectly.
If any part has more than 2 mm play or shows visible damage, replace it via our parts & components page. Keeping linkages tight and well‑lubricated cuts 80% of steering faults.
Checking Belts, Pulleys, and Tire Pressure
Belts and tires affect steering feel. A small slip or pressure drop changes turn behavior:
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Drive and deck belts
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Inspect for cracks, glazing, or frayed edges.
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Check tension: press midway between pulleys. It should deflect 10–12 mm with moderate finger force.
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Pulleys and idlers
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Spin each pulley by hand after removing the belt.
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Listen for grinding or feel for rough spots. Replace pulleys that don’t spin freely.
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Tire pressure
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Use a dial gauge on each tire.
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Inflate all four to the same PSI (often 8–10 PSI, but check your manual).
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Low pressure on one side makes the mower pull toward that side.
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Tire wear and tread
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Inspect tread depth and pattern.
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Swap front tires left to right if tread differs by more than 2 mm.
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Replace tires older than three seasons or with dry rot cracks.
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Check Point | Action |
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Belt deflection | 10–12 mm under moderate finger force |
Pulley spin | Smooth, silent rotation |
Tire PSI | Equal front and rear readings within 1 PSI |
Tread depth | Replace if uneven by > 2 mm or if cracks appear |
Note: An over‑tightened belt stresses bearings. Check deflection first, then adjust. If belt tension feels uneven side‑to‑side, swap belts left to right to test.
When to Call Legacy Small Engines for Expert Repair
Some faults need shop tools or deep hydraulic skills. Call us if you see:
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Hydraulic fluid leaks
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Puddles under the pump or lines.
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Dark, milky fluid that smells like oil.
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Pump or motor noise
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Whining or grinding under load.
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Sudden loss of drive power.
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Bent frame or axle
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Mower list to one side even at rest.
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Visual bends near wheels or deck.
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Complex hydro rebuilds
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Gear pumps need full disassembly.
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Precise tolerances and seal kits required.
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What to expect in shop
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Diagnosis: 30–45 minutes of operator and test‑bench checks.
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Estimates: You receive a clear quote before work starts.
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Turnaround: Simple repairs finish in 1–2 days. Large hydro rebuilds take 3–5 days.
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Warranty: We cover parts for 90 days, labor for 30 days.
We serve all of Ottawa. Book online for pickup or drop‑off via our Ottawa service area or call us at the number on our contact page. View service rates on our pricing page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: Why does my mower pull to one side?
A: Unequal tire pressure or a bent linkage can cause a pull. Check both first.
Q2: How often should I lubricate linkages?
A: Every 25 hours of run time or at the start of each mowing season.
Q3: Can I replace belts myself?
A: Yes, if you have basic tools and follow the manual’s tension specs.
Q4: What PSI should my tires be?
A: Most zero‑turns run 8–10 PSI. Check your manual to confirm.
Q5: How long does a professional steering repair take?
A: Simple fixes take 1–2 hours. Hydrostatic rebuilds can take 3–5 days.